Vietnamese Four-Part Dress: Ao Tu Than

The traditional attire for women in Northern Vietnam is called Ao Tu Than ( Vietnamese four-part dress in English). It was once worn on a daily basis but now only shows up during traditional Vietnamese events. Originating in Ao Tu Than is the well-known Ao dai. Vietnamese women seem incredibly attractive and graceful when wearing a kerchief with Mu quai thao (a palm hat with fringes). Since it was designed for rural ladies, dark, simple fabric was frequently used in its construction, with the exception of special occasions like weddings or festivals. An almost floor-length, flowing outer tunic. It has a front opening similar to a jacket. The tunic divides into two flaps at the waist: two flaps in the front that are not sewed together but can be knotted together or left dangling; and a full flap in the rear that is made up of two flaps sewn together.

Regardless of its many variations, the fundamental Ao Tu Than includes:

- An almost floor-length, flowing outer tunic. It has a front opening similar to a jacket. The tunic divides into two flaps at the waist: two flaps in the front that are not sewed together but can be knotted together or left dangling; and a full flap in the rear that is made up of two flaps sewn together.

- A long skirt that is tucked into the tunic.

- Yem, a prehistoric bodice worn by women as undergarments. It is worn beneath the skirt and outer tunic and is available in a variety of fabrics and colors.

- A silk belt that is worn around the waist.

When did Ao Tu Than appear?

There is no historical evidence of the invention of this garment. Its appearance, however, is probably connected to the time when Vietnamese people first learned how to grow cotton, spin it, and weave 30–40 cm broadcloth on a crude loom. Additionally, it could have been produced when they discovered how to grow mulberries, raise silkworms, spin, and then weave the delicate fabrics like crepe, gauze, and thin silk.

However, there are a number of traditional Vietnamese costumes, like the well-known Ao tu Than. Ao Tu Than is the other more popular Kinh costume, in addition to the more well-known Ao Dai (in Vietnam).

On the other hand, the Ao Tu Than is frequently rejected as merely being typical clothing from the North, while being seen by many as a more accurate reflection of Kinh Vietnamese. It is still recognized as the model for Northern Vietnamese ladies in Vietnam. Like the Ao Dai, the history of the clothing is obscure, but many people believe it dates back to the 12th century.

Ao Tu Than was originally worn by peasants, which may explain why it was frequently seen in dark browns and blacks. According to renowned Vietnamese Court Gown Restorer Trinh Bach, the majority of Ao Tu Than produced now are incredibly vivid, but it's fascinating to note that the ancient Vietnamese may have chosen more subdued hues.

Highlights of Ao Tu Than

A gauze or silk robe is worn over a white or yellow shirt as the four-part garment. The robe is made up of four long, slender lengths of material. The back and heel of two parts are linked. The two front pieces are attached to the two back pieces at the waist, where they are knotted together with a green, pink, or yellow belt. Typically, the robe is made of ebony, black, or brown gauze. An Ao mo ba is a set of three robes worn by women frequently at spring festivals. The outer robe is made of black or brown gauze, while the inner two are either pale yellow, the hue of a lotus, or sky blue. Women used to wear skirts, but eventually switched to black satin or coarse silk pants. Some also wore crimson crepe.

Meaning of Ao Tu Than

The four-part dress has a very profound importance for Vietnamese ladies in addition to being a stunning outfit. The father and mother of her spouse are depicted by two pieces in the front and two in the back. A brief item serves as a bib to represent the parents holding their child in their laps. Five discrete human virtues - humanitarianism, politeness, responsibility, wisdom, and trustworthiness—are symbolized by five seeds placed in proportion in five fixed spots while maintaining proper attire. The couple's love is symbolized by the two front parts that are connected together.

The "Ao Tu Than”, which is often constructed of plain fabric in dark colors, has long been a popular attire among peasant women. Additionally, this colorful attire was worn on special events like weddings and celebrations.

The basic Ao Tu Than is made up of a flowing outer tunic with two flaps split at the waist, a long skirt worn underneath the tunic, Yem, an old bodice worn by women as an undergarment, and a silk sash tied at the waist as a belt. The tunic, bodice, and skirt of this costume are made of a variety of colors and textures, making it vibrant and seductive.

Although the Ao Tu Than is no longer frequently utilized in Vietnamese daily life, it continues to be an essential component of northern Vietnamese traditional events like the Lim festival, which honors the well-known Bac Ninh Quan Ho folk melodies.

Female folk singers frequently don this outfit during this event along with a "non quai thao”, a conical hat with fringe hanging from both sides, a "Khan Mo Qua”, a kerchief shaped like a crow's beak made of thick cloth, and "guoc moc”, a pair of wooden clogs.

Usage of Ao Tu Than

The "Ao Tu Than”, which is often constructed of plain fabric in dark colors, has long been a popular attire among peasant women. Ao Tu Than, the working class garment, was typically constructed of dark fabric to prevent stains. Typically, women working in the fields would wear this. Additionally, this colorful attire was worn on special events like weddings and celebrations.

The basic Ao Tu Than is made up of a flowing outer tunic with two flaps split at the waist, a long skirt worn underneath the tunic, Yem, an old bodice worn by women as an undergarment, and a silk sash tied at the waist as a belt. The tunic, bodice, and skirt of this costume are made of a variety of colors and textures, making it vibrant and seductive.

Although the Ao Tu Than is no longer frequently utilized in Vietnamese daily life, it continues to be an essential component of northern Vietnamese traditional events like the Lim festival, which honors the well-known Bac Ninh Quan Ho folk melodies. Female folk singers frequently don this outfit during this event along with a "non quai thao”, a conical hat with fringe hanging from both sides, a "Khan Mo Qua”, a kerchief shaped like a crow's beak made of thick cloth, and "guoc moc”, a pair of wooden clogs.

Conclusion

Given that it was commonly worn by women from the early 20th century to the end of the 12th century, the "Ao Tu than” can be regarded as one of the oldest remaining Vietnamese cultural artifacts. It evolved after the Hanfu garment from China was introduced. Vietnam's southern expansion led to the emergence of marginally distinct regional cultures, and over time the "Ao Tu than” came to be identified specifically with northern ladies. With the exception of special events like festivals or weddings, "Ao Tu than” was the attire of commoner ladies, which explains why it was frequently fashioned of planer fabric and in darker colors. While the majority of contemporary "Ao Tu than” are vibrantly colored, it appears that the ancient Vietnamese favored muted colors.

This clothing was commonly worn by Vietnamese women in the North centuries before the advent of the Ao Dai, making it one of Vietnam's most lasting traditional garments. The "Ao Tu Than”, which is often constructed of plain fabric in dark colors, has long been a popular attire among peasant women.